Unlike our previous backpacking adventures, the North Cascades National Park does not allow you to reserve backpacking permits in advance-- they are issued on a first-come-first-serve basis within 24 hours of your start day. I personally found this concept very stressful. What if you arrive for a permit, and none are available?
Our plan was to drive to Kamloops on Saturday, drive to Abbotsford on Sunday morning, and on Sunday afternoon, cross the border to secure ourselves a hiking permit for Monday morning. After all, there can't be THAT many hikers like ourselves, starting a hike on Monday morning, right? However, we did not anticipate the 45+ minute wait at the border (the border crossing sign said 20 minutes, dammit!), and as the minutes ticked away, we realized we were not going to make it to the ranger station before it closed for the day. So we headed back to the hotel and called the ranger station. Andrew and Ashley got through just before closing and were told our preferred campsites were not going to work-- all the campsites on the ridge were full for the first night, but we could probably hike our route in reverse order, if we arrived at opening on Monday morning.
Day 1 - Hannegan Trailhead to Copper Creek Campsite (12.1km)
We hiked the loop in a counterclockwise direction, starting in the Chilliwack River Valley, then working our way up to Copper Ridge. The elevation profile above shows the trail hiked in the opposite (clockwise) direction to the way we travelled. But it still gives you a good idea of the kind of terrain we were hiking.
Team Greig ready to go!
As we left the parking lot, we were bright-eyed and enthusiastic, and most of all, clean. And yes, as I strapped on my backpack after the two-year backpacking hiatus, and a felt the full weight of the extra 25-30lbs I was strapping on, I found myself wondering, "Am I crazy?! I'm going to hike 55km with all this extra weight!?" But it's amazing, after the first few kilometers, your body adapts, and you don't really feel the weight anymore.
Our first day of hiking was relatively easy. We ascended a gentle incline for the first 6.4km (4 miles), and slowly made our way out of the valley vegetation into a more alpine-like elevation. There was still snow on the peaks around us, but there were plenty of flowers in bloom and small waterfalls to keep us interested.
When we reached the peak of our first ascent, Hannegan Pass, we began the relatively steep descent towards Boundary Camp. Boundary Camp sits on the edge of Mt. Baker Snoqualmie National Forest and the North Cascades National Park.
Entering North Cascades National Park.
Trail deviates into the Chilliwack River Valley.
From this point, we descended another 4.5km (2.5miles) into the Chilliwack River Valley, before we reached our first stopping point on the trip, Copper Creek Campsite. Copper Creek was the busiest campsite we encountered during our trip-- even so, there was only a group of six and another couple in addition to our group of four. We called it an early night. I coughed and hacked through most of the night (did I mention I was sick for this entire trip?). Needless to say, no one was rested come morning.
Day 2 - Copper Creek Campsite to Indian Creek Campsite (11.4km)
Tom and I ready to start Day 2.
In all honesty, we probably could have forded the river without any problems. The cable car is really meant for earlier in the season when the river is high from runoff. But seriously, how many times in your life do you get to cross a river in a cable car? The choice was easy, even if unecessary.
Ashley climbing up to the cable car platform.
Ashley and I hauling the cable car from the opposing river bank.
Tom hauling us across in the cable car.
Ashley and Andrew realizing they left Ashley's hiking poles on the platform.
Hauling the cable car was an exhausting task, even though I left most of the heavy-duty work to Tom and Andrew. But Andrew was especially exhausted when he had to go back across to pick up their forgotten hiking poles.
We crossed over several tributaries to the Chilliwack River, and I was repeatedly impressed by the trail infrastructure along the way. We didn't even have to pay for our backpacking permit-- the only thing we paid to enjoy the trail was $5/day for parking.
Me crossing the World's Most Wobbly Suspension Bridge.
After only 4.5 hours of hiking, we found ourselves at our Day 2 destination, the Indian Creek campsite. There were only two other couples at this campsite, and the campsites were situated with enough distance that you barely knew anyone else was there.
Temporary Home Sweet Home.
Ashley and Andrew cooking dinner.
We set up camp and enjoyed some lunch by the creek, and then spent some time relaxing, reading, and washing up in the ice-cold water. We also encountered a father and son as we were eating lunch who had travelled from the nearby US Cabin campsite-- only to discover that their tent had either fallen out of their pack along the trail, or they had failed to pack it when they left that morning. They were eating a quick lunch before heading back to track it down.
Day 3 and 4 to follow soon in Part 2. Stay tuned!
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