Sunday, August 31, 2014

Copper Ridge/Chilliwack River Trail, North Cascades - Part 3

One of my favourite things post-hike is getting my hands on Ashley and Andrew's photos. It always amazes me how we hiked the same trail in a little line, one after another-- yet their photos show a different perspective than ours.

Enjoy this photo bonanza!

Ashley and I testing our hiking poles in the parking lot on Day 1.

A tiny bug landing on an alpine flower.

Tom and I in the cable car.

Ashley and Andrew on the trail.

View from a riverside snack stop.

 My man, eating lunch on Day 2.

Salmon swimming in the river.

Tom piggy-backing me across the river (so I wouldn't have to get my feet wet and re-bandage them).

A few from our lunch spot on Day 3.

A grouse (bottom right) surveying the valley.

Ashley traversing some leftover August snow.

A marmot peeping at us on a windy slope.

Tom and I up on the ridge.

Alpine flowers near the highest point of elevation.

Egg Lake campsite.

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Copper Ridge/Chilliwack River Trail, North Cascades - Part 2

Day 3: Indian Creek to Egg Lake (18.5km)

Knowing full well that Day 3 would be a grueling day, we set out early, waking up at 6:30am, eating breakfast, and packing up camp by 8:00am. We covered the first 1.5km quickly, until the path directed us straight into the river-- our first fording attempt of the morning. Fording the river was momentarily forgotten when we saw, to our delight, that this section of the river was teaming with bright red salmon with green snouts. The salmon were spawning up the Chilliwack River, and we were finally able to catch a glimpse of dozens of them in the clear and shallow river water.

Salmon spawning in the river.

More salmon in the river.

Some of the salmon were very small-- the looked less than 10 inches long, while others were probably closer to two feet. They scattered when they saw our movement on the banks, but they would lazily drift back. Once salmon are finished spawning, they essentially stop eating and die. There were some dead fish floating along the banks. We thought we'd see some bears in the area, but we had no sightings along the river.

Andrew, Ashley and I fording the river on a convenient fallen log.

In our first river crossing of the day, we used a fallen tree as our bridge. For our second river crossing of the day, we waded across. Or really, Andrew, Ashley and Tom waded across. Tom eventually came back and piggy-backed me across the river so I wouldn't have to get my freshly blister-bandaged feet and toes wet.

We said good-bye to the river valley, and all I can tell you is that the next four hours of our life were dedicated to ascending up. Up, up and more up. We went up switchbacks, and when the switchbacks were finished, we went up some more. Along this section of the trail, we ascended about 3000ft in about 6.2km (4 miles). It went on and on and on. According to our initial trip plans, if we had hiked the trail in the opposite direction we would have descended this portion of the trail. I can't help but think that my knees and joints would have been destroyed if we'd gone with our original plan. Though the day was long, going up ultimately felt better than going down.

An inukshuk balanced along the trail.

Reaching the summit of the ridge felt like a true accomplishment, so we took a few moments to bask in the view, and snap some group shots.

Tom and I after emerging from the Chilliwack River Valley.

Team Greig, finally on Copper Ridge.

With a few more kilometers on the ridge, we found a field of boulders to take a break and make some lunch. Knowing Day 3 would be our longest day, we saved our two best meals for last. Sweet and sour pork with rice for lunch, and pad thai for dinner.

Everyone relaxing while our dehydrated meal rehydrates.

Our next milestone was passing Copper Lake campsite. In a perfect world, Copper Lake would have been our stopping point after 13km of hiking. However, Copper Lake campsite was full, so we needed to proceed another 6km or so to Egg Lake.

A waterfall fed from Copper Lake.

We barely stopped to acknowledge Copper Lake. By the time we hit the campsite marker, it was already 4pm-- a full hour later than we had anticipated passing the campsite. We trailblazed past.

Copper Lake Campsite.

The last 6km of our day included the highest elevation that we would reach during our hike-- the Lookout at 6260ft. The Lookout was high enough that we were at times above the clouds. The wind was blowing strong and cold, and I was coughing uncontrollably. We stopped at the shack at the Lookout to take a few pictures, and visit with a few local marmots hanging out on some rocks. There was no park ranger in-house at the Lookout.

The Lookout at the highest point on Copper Ridge.

Views from the Lookout.

Ashley, Andrew and I descending from the Lookout.

After dropping about 500ft, we finally reached a trail marker pointing us towards our Egg Lake campsite. As we made our way down a steep incline, Andrew spotted a black bear with her cub in a field. We stopped to watch them for a few minutes before the bear and her cub either heard, saw, or smelled us. They alertly watched us for a few minutes, but as soon as we started to continue our hike down the trail, the bear and her cub took off in the opposite direction. They ran into a nearby copse of trees, where the mother hid behind a tree, and her cub ruined their hiding spot by running around in plain sight. They eyed us from a distance as we continues past, before they began their climb out of the valley.

Squint and you shall see--Momma bear and her cub.

It was just after 6pm when we arrived at our Egg Lake campsite-- we had just under ten hours of hiking under our belts. Ashley and I set up tents, while Andrew and Tom started filtering water and cooking dinner. It wasn't long before clouds were rolling over the side of the ridge, and rolling in over Egg Lake. It was chilly up on the ridge-- it was probably our coldest night, but even so, we were comfortable and warm in our tents and sleeping bags.

Home Sweet Home 2.0, overlooking Egg Lake.

Day 4: Egg Lake to Hannegan Trailhead (13.5km)

The sun came up early on the ridge. The morning was overcast, but we got a beautiful look at the blue-green waters of Egg Lake. We ate oatmeal and drank hot tea to warm ourselves up before breaking camp and packing up. It was just after 8:30am when we headed out. Our plan was to hike straight off the ridge, as fast as possible. We were armed with plenty of snacks, but we did not have any full meals left.

Morning at Egg Lake. 

As the morning wore on, the clouds burned off and blue skies appeared.

 
Morning clouds on the ridge.

A prime view of the trail we needed to cover.

Our hike off the ridge and back through Hannegan pass took us through more slopes of purple, white and yellow wildflowers.

Wild flowers on the slopes of Copper Ridge.

After 5.5km, we found ourselves back at the boundary of the North Cascades National Park, and Mount Baker/Mount Snoqualmie National Forest. Over the course of 8km, we returned to familiar ground, hiked up to Hannegan Pass, and descended back down the valley and back to the Hannegan Trailhead parking lot.

Team Greig, Finished!

To celebrate, we took one last sweaty group shot, took off our disgusting hiking shoes, and clambered back to our cars. After four days in the bush, a simple car seat feels like the most comfortable chair you've ever sat in.

Now, you're probably asking yourself-- of all the hikes you've finished, where did the Copper Ridge/Chilliwack River Trail, North Cascades National Park rank among your other hiking adventures?

1) Grand Canyon - North to South Rim (2009)
2) Mt. Rainier National Park - Northern Loop (2011)
3) North Cascades National Park - Copper Ridge/Chilliwack River Trail (2014)
4) Yellowstone National Park - Shoshone Geyser Trail (2012)
5) Vancouver Island - Juan de Fuca Trail (2010)

The North Cascades and Mt. Rainier are a close tie. I have been debating whether I would actually place it before Mt. Rainier, but ultimately I think Mt. Rainier still wins.

Now all we need to do is figure out where we'll go next...

The Half Dome in Yosemite, California? Or maybe the Chilkoot Trail between the Yukon and Alaska?

Time will tell!

Sunday, August 24, 2014

Copper Ridge/Chilliwack River Trail, North Cascades - Part 1


It's that time of year again! And after a two-year hiatus, Ashley, Andrew, Tom and I were hitting the trail for a backcountry backpacking adventure. This time we selected the 55km Copper Ridge/Chilliwack River trail in the North Cascades National Park in Washington State.

Unlike our previous backpacking adventures, the North Cascades National Park does not allow you to reserve backpacking permits in advance-- they are issued on a first-come-first-serve basis within 24 hours of your start day. I personally found this concept very stressful. What if you arrive for a permit, and none are available?

Our plan was to drive to Kamloops on Saturday, drive to Abbotsford on Sunday morning, and on Sunday afternoon, cross the border to secure ourselves a hiking permit for Monday morning. After all, there can't be THAT many hikers like ourselves, starting a hike on Monday morning, right? However, we did not anticipate the 45+ minute wait at the border (the border crossing sign said 20 minutes, dammit!), and as the minutes ticked away, we realized we were not going to make it to the ranger station before it closed for the day. So we headed back to the hotel and called the ranger station. Andrew and Ashley got through just before closing and were told our preferred campsites were not going to work-- all the campsites on the ridge were full for the first night, but we could probably hike our route in reverse order, if we arrived at opening on Monday morning.

Day 1 - Hannegan Trailhead to Copper Creek Campsite (12.1km)


After a painfully early rise and shine, we arrived at the ranger stations at around 8:15am. There were two groups ahead of us in line already, but we managed to secure three campsites for the night four days, three nights of hiking. Our third day of hiking was not ideal-- almost 19km of hiking, and over 4000ft of elevation gain. The more ideal campsite (which would have put us at 13km of hiking) was full, so we had to tack on an extra 6km. But nevertheless, we were happy to have our hiking permit in hand. We were on our way.

We hiked the loop in a counterclockwise direction, starting in the Chilliwack River Valley, then working our way up to Copper Ridge. The elevation profile above shows the trail hiked in the opposite (clockwise) direction to the way we travelled. But it still gives you a good idea of the kind of terrain we were hiking.

Team Greig ready to go!

As we left the parking lot, we were bright-eyed and enthusiastic, and most of all, clean. And yes, as I strapped on my backpack after the two-year backpacking hiatus, and a felt the full weight of the extra 25-30lbs I was strapping on, I found myself wondering, "Am I crazy?! I'm going to hike 55km with all this extra weight!?" But it's amazing, after the first few kilometers, your body adapts, and you don't really feel the weight anymore.


Our first day of hiking was relatively easy. We ascended a gentle incline for the first 6.4km (4 miles), and slowly made our way out of the valley vegetation into a more alpine-like elevation. There was still snow on the peaks around us, but there were plenty of flowers in bloom and small waterfalls to keep us interested.


When we reached the peak of our first ascent, Hannegan Pass, we began the relatively steep descent towards Boundary Camp. Boundary Camp sits on the edge of Mt. Baker Snoqualmie National Forest and the North Cascades National Park.

Entering North Cascades National Park.

Trail deviates into the Chilliwack River Valley.

From this point, we descended another 4.5km (2.5miles) into the Chilliwack River Valley, before we reached our first stopping point on the trip, Copper Creek Campsite. Copper Creek was the busiest campsite we encountered during our trip-- even so, there was only a group of six and another couple in addition to our group of four. We called it an early night. I coughed and hacked through most of the night (did I mention I was sick for this entire trip?). Needless to say, no one was rested come morning.

Day 2 - Copper Creek Campsite to Indian Creek Campsite (11.4km)

Tom and I ready to start Day 2.

Day 2 was our easiest day of hiking. We had the shortest distance to cover, only 11.4km, and it was essentially all flat along the river valley.  Easily could have equated to boring, but there were plenty of attractions to keep us interested along the way. We encountered our first point of interest about 5km into our hike-- a cable car to cross the Chilliwack River!

In all honesty, we probably could have forded the river without any problems. The cable car is really meant for earlier in the season when the river is high from runoff. But seriously, how many times in your life do you get to cross a river in a cable car? The choice was easy, even if unecessary.

Ashley climbing up to the cable car platform.

Ashley and I hauling the cable car from the opposing river bank.

Tom hauling us across in the cable car.
  
Ashley and Andrew realizing they left Ashley's hiking poles on the platform.

Hauling the cable car was an exhausting task, even though I left most of the heavy-duty work to Tom and Andrew. But Andrew was especially exhausted when he had to go back across to pick up their forgotten hiking poles.


We crossed over several tributaries to the Chilliwack River, and I was repeatedly impressed by the trail infrastructure along the way. We didn't even have to pay for our backpacking permit-- the only thing we paid to enjoy the trail was $5/day for parking.
 
Me crossing the World's Most Wobbly Suspension Bridge.

After only 4.5 hours of hiking, we found ourselves at our Day 2 destination, the Indian Creek campsite. There were only two other couples at this campsite, and the campsites were situated with enough distance that you barely knew anyone else was there. 

Temporary Home Sweet Home.

Ashley and Andrew cooking dinner.

We set up camp and enjoyed some lunch by the creek, and then spent some time relaxing, reading, and washing up in the ice-cold water. We also encountered a father and son as we were eating lunch who had travelled from the nearby US Cabin campsite-- only to discover that their tent had either fallen out of their pack along the trail, or they had failed to pack it when they left that morning. They were eating a quick lunch before heading back to track it down.

Day 3 and 4 to follow soon in Part 2. Stay tuned!

Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Third Time's the Charm - Crypt Lake

Our third attempt at hiking Crypt Lake Trail in Waterton finally happened this past weekend.

Our first attempt was in June of 2013-- it was too snowy, so we hiked to Goat Lake instead. Our second attempt was interrupted by Jeff's Jeep dying on the way to Waterton... We hiked Bertha Lake instead.

But this time... This time nothing could stop us from hiking Crypt Lake!

Our hiking group, originally five back in 2013-- myself, Tom, Ashley, Jeff and Jill had expanded to eight. Now including Jeff's girlfriend, Julie, Jill's boyfriend, Chintan, and Ashley's friend, Megan. And if I may say so, they were an excellent and enthusiastic group of hikers! We all drove up to Mountain View outside of Waterton National Park on Friday night after work to spend the night at Ashley's parent's cabin-- some of us meeting for the first time on our arrival.

Saturday morning started with a trip to the Waterton townsite to buy tickets on the water shuttle to Crypt Landing-- the trailhead for the hike. For a whopping $21/person (return-trip) the shuttle takes you for a 15 minute ride across the lake. Normally there are a 9:00am and 10:00am shuttle. On this particular day there ended up being 3-4 for boats, because they hike was so popular!

Waterton Lake in the morning.

The Crypt Lake trail is about 18km round trip, with 2300ft of elevation gain. Along the way, there were stunning vistas, waterfalls aplenty, and brightly coloured wildflowers sprouting along the paths. The trail was not overly challenging-- properly somewhere between moderate-strenuous. Strenuous only because of the overall length of the trail. The trail itself was a relatively gentle grade-- at least compared with some of the other hikes we've done!


Initially, about 120 people disembark from the boat at the same time. As a result, the first few kilometers on the trail you felt like an ant in a never-ending line of hikers. But eventually the groups pulled apart according to their skill level, and we continued up the trail on our own.


Wildflowers below a waterfall.

Emerging from the treeline.

The highlight of the hike really came near the end midway point of the hike, where you climb up a steel ladder, squeeze through a tunnel in the mountain, and come out the other end holding on to cables secured into the rock face.

Tunnel entrance via steel ladder.

Julie climbing up the steel ladder.

Hiking group at the mouth of the tunnel.

Jill and I holding on to cables in the rock face.

When we emerge out the other side of the tunnel and cables, it was just a short jaunt to our final destination-- Crypt Lake!

Crypt Lake Marker.

We joined the other hundreds of hikers relaxing on the shores of Crypt Lake for a laid back lunch. Several parties had brought small dogs with them, so we watched a small dachshund wiggling around nervously, and a spaniel obsessive compulsively chasing a stick thrown out in the lake by anyone he could convince to throw the stick.

Crypt Lake.

After lunch we all headed down to a large chunk of ice on the shore of the lake. There was a shelf of ice below that water that give the ice a strange glowing blue colour-- much like you'd imagine an iceberg to look like. Of course, a snowball fight ensued, before we headed back to collect our bags and begin the trek back to the boat pick-up. As we were collecting out bags, part of the ice shelf collapsed into the water. If anyone had been standing on it when it happened (which was where Tom had been standing minutes before), they would have slid right into the water for an unwanted dip in the glacier-fed lake. Dodged a bullet on that one!

Crypt Lake shore ice.

We convinced a small girl to take a group photo for us (which she did, while remaining 100% silent, even when we thanked her profusely).

Group shot!

It's amazing how you manage to miss views, depending on the direction you're hiking in. As we descended back into the family, we were treated to another beautiful view full of blue skies and lush vegetation. With a hiking group so large, we saw absolutely no wildlife, except for a few errant squirrels.



We took an offshoot trail into Hell Roaring Canyon on our way back to the boat landing. It was a bit steeper than the regular trail, and took a little longer than the main trail, but we made it back in plenty of time to catch the boat home. 

Tom and I waiting for the boat home.

 Crypt Lake was a great hike! Well worth the year long wait, and two prior attempts!

P.S. We got a new camera. You like? Some of the group photos are from Jeff and Megan's cameras, but the rest are ours!