Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Final Stop, Lisbon

At long last... Our final stop on this two and a half week trip was in Lisbon, Portugal. Lisbon was a refreshing respite from the 38 degree weather we had experienced in Seville. It was cooler in Lisbon, between 20 - 25 degrees while we were there-- much more pleasant for all the sightseeing we did!


On our first full morning in Lisbon, we decided to check out Castelo de Sao Jorge (St. George's Castle). One of the first things I spotted on our way to the castle was a rather discreet public urinal tucked into the corner of a building. It was on a main walking street, and had a knee to shoulder height black screen, about a meter deep, for men to step behind. No door, it was open-air, with a bit of water trickling from somewhere (I didn't investigate that closely). Just one of those things that you'd probably never see in Canada...

St. George's Castle is a Moorish castle that sits on a hilltop in the historic area of Lisbon near the Tagus River. Excavations have suggested that the first fortifications on the hill were built during the 2nd century BC. The castle itself is considerably younger.

 St. George's Castle

Castles are so cool. They take you back to a time that you will never experience yourself, and will probably never truly understand. As we squeezed past other tourists on steep, narrow staircases, you couldn't help but wonder-- what was life like back then?

We also found ourselves wondering, "What is making that god-awful shrieking noise?" It sounded a bit like a toddler shrieking for help. But we later realized, no. It is a group of peacocks shrieking at each other. 

Peacock #1

After listening to four of these birds shriek mindlessly at each other for an hour, I'm now convinced the peacocks may be the stupidest birds on the planet.

Peacock #2

While I was sitting on a bench, waiting for Tom, I also had a close encounter with some sort of interpretative dance troupe. I have no idea what was happening, or what play (dance?) they were interpreting (it was being read in Portuguese), but a group of teenagers came dancing/crawling/dramatically sweeping past me. Anyone who knows me can probably picture my awkward frozen horror as several teenagers crawled/danced over the bench I was sitting on. IN MY PERSONAL SPACE! Stranger danger! Later we saw them dancing in other areas of the castle, and I avoided them like the plague.

View from St. George's Castle.

From the castle's vantage point on the hill, we had some nice views of the city. AND we actually asked a couple to take a picture of us!


And, as you can see, we did a lot of stairs in Lisbon as well. The set of stairs below took us down to a castle turret protruding out from the main structure.

More stairs!

After a lunch consisting of chick peas and sardines, Tom and I made our way to the Lisbon Aquarium-- a highlight on the trip for us.

My favourite exhibit was the sea otters. There were two sea otters at the aquarium, and they seemed to be great friends. They were swimming around collecting chunks of white fish. When they had a good piece of fish, they would swim on their backs, resting the fish on their chest as they swam. They would share and hand fish back and forth between them! The photo below may be the greatest photo I took in Lisbon!


There was an information plaque beside the otter exhibit that said it is not uncommon to see the two otters sleeping while floating in the water, holding paws. They hold on to each other so they don't get separated while they sleep!

A puffin.

There was also an exhibit with Arctic birds. It seemed like the birds had just been fed, so there were chunks of fish all over the enclosure. This meant that there were birds flying around near our heads. Not my favourite experience... But we emerged unscathed (without being pooped on). The aquarium also had a huge central tank full of sharks, barracuda, sting rays, sunfish and eels, and smaller exhibits with jellyfish and tropical fish. There was also a temporary exhibit on underwater forests by a Japanese aquarist. The exhibit was set to a soothing composition of music-- it was really lovely!

 On our second full day in Lisbon-- and last day of our trip, we went to see the last few major tourist attractions. First stop was Jeronimos Monastery. The monastery began construction in 1501, and was completed a hundred years later in 1601. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an example of Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline-style architecture.

Jeronimos Monastery

Not much of the monastery was open to the public, so there was less to see than we would have hoped. But I was impressed by the webbing-like arches inside the church


The last major sight on our list was the Belem Tower-- which turned out to be the most poorly run attraction that we saw on our entire trip!

It seemed like there was only one narrow stairwell up to the tower. You had to take the same stairway to go up and down. When you add in a couple hundred tourists who all want to go in different directions... You have a problem. There was also a complicated green and red stop light timing system that was supposed to allow certain people at certain levels to travel up and down without major traffic jams... But there was only one man who appeared to be trying to direct people, and it was chaos. At one point we were stuck in the same place in the stairwell for a couple minutes, and a teenager ahead of us appeared to be hyperventilating her way into an anxiety attack.

Belem Tower.

The Belem Tower is a fortified tower that was built in the early 16th century. The tower was built as part of a defense system at the mouth of the Tagus River, and has evolved over the years. It is four stories tall, and also contains some low-ceiling dungeons that served as a political prison

 Me standing on Alberta.

By this point in the trip, we were ready to go home.  We conveniently stumbled upon a map of the world, and you can see me above, indicating our trip home to Canada.

I like travelling, but there's nothing like coming home.

The next morning, we caught a cab to the airport bright and early, and were on our way.

Not sure where our next big trip will be, but you can be sure to catch it here.

Until next time!

Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Castle Hopping in Sintra

May 15, 2015

The city of Sintra, Portugal was our last day-trip of our holiday. This destination was recommended by my friends, Amy and Jill, and a random American man and his enthusiastic wife that we met in a restaurant in Seville.

Sintra is just a quick 40-minute train ride away from Lisbon. It is the home of several national palaces, a Moorish castle, and various other palaces. The majority of the buildings were built in the 19th century, and host a variety of architectural styles. Sintra has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. And when you get a load of these pictures, you will understand why.


From the train, we got our first glimpse of the Moorish Castle, high on the hilltop above the city of Sintra. Turns out I actually didn't get a picture of our first glimpse of the castle, but the photo above does the trick and capturing our awe. Except in this photo we are above the castle... When we arrived on the train, we were below the castle. First we had to hike up the hill. I'll save you the suspense... Our day in Sintra was a 25,000 step day, about 16km of walking.

Castle of the Moors.

The Castle of the Moors was beautiful. The only thing that would have made it better was if more of the castle inside the walls had been left intact, or had been recovered. The outside walls are the most prominent remaining structures of the castle, and there were a few small artifacts left in a limited museum-like display room.

It was hella windy in Sintra. This was probably the coldest day of the trip (and by cold, I mean it was 19 degrees... so not too shabby!), but the windy made it a bit uncomfortable. This was the first time that I brought a jacket with me and actually used it!

Tom and I, windblown.





As we made our way around the walls, we were treated to some nice views of the city. We also had some nice views of the ocean in the opposite direction, and a National Park.



The very top of the Moorish Castle also provided us with a vantage point of our next stop, the Pena National Palace. The Pena National Palace was the summer residence of the Portuguese monarchs during the 18th - 19th century. From a distance, it was a very intriguing looking place. Bright colours, interesting architecture...

Pena National Palace.

Up close was another story... Up close, I felt like I was passing through the gates of Disneyland. Nothing like bright red, yellow and blue paint to make a place feel like the ultimate tourist attraction.

Gates of Pena National Palace.

Tom and I made a full circuit around the palace, peeking in nooks and crannies, and holding on to railings in the gusting wind.


We toured through the to royal residence where kings once slept! And trailed behind an English tour guide. I'm not sure if the tour guide worked for the palace, or if she was giving a tour to a specific group, but we fully took advantage of her English monologue.

Plaster ceiling in the palace.

One of the things that surprised Tom and I in the palace was there seemed to be a good deal of effort that was put into making some of the rooms appear more splendid than they actually were. For example, there was a room that contained fake wood paneling. The walls were literally painted to look like wood paneling. Or, there was another room that where the walls were painted with a series of columns and arches, in an attempt to make the room appear larger than in actually was. This was the main difference between the palaces we saw in Spain, and what we saw in Portugal.  In Spain, the palace and adjoining rooms WERE huge. In Portugal, there seemed like there was a concerted effort to make rooms APPEAR huge.

Nonetheless, it was still an interesting visit. One of the most interesting tidbits we picked up is that after the passing of King Ferdinand in 1885, the ownership of Pena Palace passed to his second wife Elisa Hensler. There was an uproar about the ownership, and in 1889, the property was purchased by the Portuguese state. At least, that is the story we eavesdropped out of the English tour guide. Wikipedia says that Elisa abandoned Sintra to move in with her daughter. The first story is so much more dramatic!

A backwards glance at the palace.

On our way out of the palace we headed into the Pena Park behind the palace. There was a series of small lakes (ponds) where we watched some black and white swans patrolling the perimeter.

A swan patrolling a pond outside Pena Palace.

All in all, an easy day trip, and some unique sights. Who doesn't love castles and palaces!?

Next post will be my last on our trip: Final Stop, Lisbon.